Is this a pizza or just the biggest red taco you’ve ever seen? – Orange County Register

Measuring a whopping 15 inches in diameter and cut into a wedge, the pizzabirria at the new Tacos Madre in Costa Mesa looks like a pizza. Emphasis on “type.” It includes many things, the least of which is a pizza.

Stuffed with birria de res, this pizzabirria is first and foremost a giant quesadilla, made with two extra-large burrito-sized flour buns. But second, it’s cooked quesabirria red: drizzled with a chile marinade as it slowly sizzles on the griddle.

Birria is suddenly everywhere. I suspect the pizzabirria will be out soon too. This dish is delicious. Birria is legal. And the bottled Mexican lagers are served ice cold.

Tacos Madre

Where: 2629 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa

When: Daily lunch and dinner

Phone: 657-247-0012

Online: tacosmadrerest.com