Surfing movies fueled a passion for surfing – Orange County Register

Today I will continue with the second part of my most memorable surf day series.

These will probably be released at different times along with other sensitive stuff being put in when it drops. The following is part of an excerpt from my book, “Still Not Finished”.

Something that had a profound effect on me was watching my first surf movie.

There are a couple of brothers who live on the same street as us, Mike and Marc De Cheveroux. They were air warriors to me, and also got into surfing at the same time as me. Their mother, Ruth, sometimes packed us all into the back of her station wagon and whisked us along the coast to Doheny and San Onofre, great surf spots at the southern end of Orange County.

One night, she spotted a “surf movie” playing at a small art house in Hollywood and took us all to see it. The name of the movie is “Surf Safari.” It was filmed and narrated by a gentleman named John Severson, who would later publish the magazine SURFER.

I will never forget the rush of adrenaline when the big wave hit the screen. Music emerges, which is the theme from Henry Mancini’s “Peter Gunn”. And the report reads: “On December 15, the largest earthquake to strike the Hawaiian Islands in more than 50 years marched out of the North Pacific. And only a few were there to meet the challenge. “

I gasped and I was completely taken in by the enormity of this. I was “stuck” with the max bid. I ran into a case rife with surf fever (later Severson title).

That was done. Since then, I go to see every surf movie there and collect every surf photo, surf poster, surf anything I can get my hands on. All the walls in my room and the ceiling will eventually be filled with surf stuff.

Surfing has consumed my life.

Yeah, I still play Little League baseball and all that, but surfing has become my passion. Everything else went back to that seat.

In 1959, the movie “Gidget” hit theaters nationwide. It’s based on a real chick that hung out in Malibu during the summer and became part of a surf group there. Her father wrote a book about her and the surf crew, and it became a Hollywood movie.

Like everything else related to surfing, I can’t wait to see it. A lot of local surfers think it’s not very practical, but I like it.

Some big-name surfers have surfed in it, like Mickey Dora. Mickey Munoz, a little guy himself, did some surfing for Sandra Dee (Gidget) wearing a girl’s two-piece bathing suit and blonde wig. The rest was done by Linda Benson, the top female surfer in the world at the time.

That movie had a huge impact on surfing. Before that, the entire surfing population in the United States consisted of a few people who were considered “beatniks,” “bohemians,” and “lunatics” along the West Coast and in Hawaii. After “Gidget”, everyone wanted to be a surfer.

America has the romantic notion that surfers are free-spirited, party-loving nomads. This is an image that I can certainly sink in and grasp as a possible vision for upward mobility. I was stoked as a child could be.

Ask an expert

Q. I just broke my brand new board in half and am not happy at all. First, it’s only two months old, and second, it’s not bumped at all, it’s just broken. Is this normal? Also, if I put it back together, will it still run the same? I like this board.

– Ted Patrick, Newport Beach

ONE. Today’s boards are not super strong due to the need to keep them light. That’s one thing.

The age of the board probably doesn’t have as much to do with how it breaks as it does. Perhaps it was trapped in the energy region of a fault wave and overstressed and fractured.

I’ve had many boards doing this, and it’s not uncommon.

In the days of heavy planks with 10-ounce double glazing and deck patches, they still managed to do this. Today’s extremely light glazing jobs sacrifice strength for lightness.

As for how will it go when fixed? That’s a big “maybe”. It will certainly weigh a bit more, but the overall characteristics remain the same. Good luck.

https://www.ocregister.com/2022/01/14/corky-surf-movies-fueled-a-passion-for-riding-waves/ Surfing movies fueled a passion for surfing – Orange County Register

Huynh Nguyen

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